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[往期回顾]

如何在荒岛上生存？

[本期内容]

The evolution of fancy dress

化妆舞会是怎么来的？

All this talk of dressing up has got me thinking, where did it all begin? Like many parts of history, it turns out we are not entirely sure. But one thing is for certain: the Masquerade movement was very important, though fancy dresses began very differently from what we know today.

所有这些关于化妆舞会的谈论让我想知道，这一切是从哪里开始的？就像历史的许多部分一样，事实证明我们对此并不完全确定。但有一点是肯定的：化妆舞会运动在当时非常重要。

虽然化妆舞会的起源与我们今天所知道的大不相同。

Masquerade balls are thought to have originated in the 14th century during Carnival (a period before Lent) to celebrate the royal family. By the 16th century, these had become public holidays, although mainly for the upper class. In Venice, this kind of activity is particularly enthusiastic. The public dances while eating, wearing masks and costumes, or wearing dark black cloaks called dominoes. Venetians' love for masquerade balls is considered to be popular in Europe around the 18th century. As the first masquerade that landed on the European coast, it had a considerable impact.

化妆舞会被认为早在14世纪就开始了，在狂欢节期间(四旬斋前的一段时间)会举行皇家舞会。到了16世纪，这些节日已经成为公共庆祝活动，尽管其中大多数是为上层阶级举办的。在威尼斯，这样的活动尤其受到热烈欢迎。

公众吃饭跳舞，戴着面具，穿着不同的衣服，或者穿着被称为多米诺骨牌的深黑色斗篷。威尼斯人对化妆舞会的热爱被认为是在18世纪左右开始在欧洲流行起来的。作为第一个进入欧洲海岸的化装舞会，产生了相当大的影响。

From early in the century, Masquerade events were held in theatres and public gardens, with individuals buying tickets to attend. By 1772 an entire building called the Pantheon was built so events could occur indoors. Some opted for less theatrical costumes, with ladies wearing a classic evening dress with the traditional Venetian cloak, and a mask. Others were much more exciting, taking inspiration from theatre, other cultures and history.

从本世纪初开始，在剧院和公共花园举行假面舞会，有人买票参加。到1772年，人们已经建造了一整栋建筑，叫做万神殿，这样各种活动都可以在室内举行。有些人选择不太引人注目的衣服，

女士们穿着经典的晚礼服，搭配传统的威尼斯斗篷和面具。其他衣服更令人兴奋，灵感来自剧院、其他文化和历史。

But masquerade is a contradictory past. Some people think this is very immoral and encourages bad behavior standards, such as sexual indecency. A (surprising) movement called "Anti-masquerade Movement" has sprung up to publicize the evil of such events. Therefore, in the early 19th century, the masquerade ball reached its peak and then declined.

但是化妆舞会是一种有争议的娱乐形式。有些人认为这是非常不道德的，因为它鼓励不良行为，如不雅行为。一场名为“反屏蔽和误解运动”的运动(令人惊讶地)兴起了，并指出了这种活动的不良影响。因此，到19世纪初，

假面舞会达到了巅峰，已经没落了。

However, the fun of the masquerade ball survived and began to spread, finding new forms. It has become fashionable to hold large masquerade balls. Although almost anything today is suitable for a masquerade ball-take the wonderful and exotic clothes found in Entz (or Bops) as an example, at that time, things were more "suitable". Although wearing a variety of historical and exotic costumes, women will incorporate them into evening dresses made for them, perhaps by new companies that have sprung up for this purpose, or by themselves.

但是，化妆舞会的乐趣依然存在，并开始蔓延，新的形式出现。举办大型化妆舞会已经成为一种时尚。虽然今天几乎所有的东西都适合化装舞会——，比如在恩茨大学(或波普斯大学)发现的奇妙而奇怪的阵列，但在那个时候，

人们穿着更得体。虽然人们穿着各种历史和异国情调的衣服，但女士们会将它们融入为自己制作的晚礼服中，要么是因为化装舞会而雨后春笋般涌现的新公司，要么是自己。

Therefore, the norms at that time, such as restrictions on bare skin and proper dress etiquette, must be observed. Like today, there are often themes. It is very popular to dress up as historical figures or styles from all over the world. Some people take more abstract routes, such as dressing up as seasons or natural phenomena like darkness. In magazines at that time, the inspiration of strange clothes was a common feature, and even books were created.

因此，在当时，必须遵守既定的规则，如对裸露皮肤的限制和适当的着装礼仪。就像今天，经常有科目限制。打扮成历史人物或者过去全球时代的风格很受欢迎。有些人选择更抽象的路线，

比如装扮成季节或者黑暗等自然现象。在那个时代的杂志里，化妆舞会的灵感是家常便饭，甚至还诞生了相关书籍。

维多利亚女王本人被视为化装舞会的忠实粉丝，这有助于保持此类活动的推广。维多利亚时代的社会以其盛大的舞会而闻名。这在某种程度上与“季节”有关。在此期间，

上流社会的年轻女性参加舞会和派对(不仅仅是化装舞会)，以示自己是结婚的合适人选。上流社会的女士们举行这些舞会来显示她们的地位、品味和财富。

参加聚会的人的美貌和品位，在全社会和媒体上都得到了各种各样的评价。当地阶级的情况也在滚雪球：到19世纪末，化妆舞会在小型聚会和更广泛的庆祝活动中越来越受欢迎，比如儿童聚会。

Today, masquerade seems to be anyone's game, from teenagers' parties to middle-aged people's memories of the past few decades. Besides, we now have more freedom in the form of masquerade: we no longer need to adhere to strict dress standards, such as ladies taking evening dresses as part of their costumes. However, fancy clothes still have subversive meanings, just as society at that time had its own concept of what "crossing the border" was, sometimes right and sometimes wrong.

如今，从青少年的聚会到中年人回忆过去，化妆舞会似乎是任何人的娱乐形式。此外，我们现在在化妆舞会的形式上有了更大的自由：我们不再需要遵守如此严格的着装标准，因为女性将晚礼服作为她们衣服的一部分。尽管如此，

假面舞会仍然有颠覆传统的意味，就像当时社会上“越界”的观念有时正确，有时错误。

【Source】www.oxfordstudent.com

[Translated from] Spark Liao (Liao Huaibao)

[Illustration] From ice

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